The last time Umeå in northern Sweden was invaded it was by the Russians during the particularly bloody battle of Sävar on the 19th August, 1809.
Last Friday evening, a little over 202 years later, another foreign force entered the City of Birches, although this time it was an assault of the more sensory kind as I tasted an army of Danish beers at Duå’s monthly beer club.
The idea was to demonstrate that although we often talk (quite correctly) about the craft beer revolution starting on the west coast of the United States we should not forget that we’ve since had a beer revolution much closer to home.
As we wage our own beer revolution across Europe today it’s sometimes easy to overlook the fact that many of Denmark’s craft breweries and brewing personalities are already battle-hardened veterans. They’ve lived through an explosion of new Danish breweries at the turn of the millennium (from 19 in 2002 to over 100 in 2008), followed by the inevitable culling of many of them as they struggled to compete in such a small home market.
Thankfully the majority of them emerged, slimmer, fitter and more hungry than ever, turning the Danish beer market into one of the most vibrant, experimental and fearless brewing scenes in the world right now.
When I wrote last year that the best thing about Sweden’s best beer show is Denmark it might have sounded a little controversial but if the beers we tasted last Friday are any indication then we’ve still got plenty we can learn from our Nordic neighbours:
Amager Summer Fusion: A rare ‘Californian Common’, a style of beer that uses a lager yeast and then ‘stresses’ it by brewing at higher temperatures, resulting in a beer that displays the crispness of a lager and the fruity notes of an ale. Beautiful tropical fruit aromas courtesy of the considerable amount of US hop varities and a beer I’d love to see on the shelves of my local supermarket. Rating: 3.5 out of 5
Hornbeer DryHop: Described as a premium lager but if you’d served this to me blind I’d have pegged it for an APA or even an IPA. As the name suggests a beer aggressively dry-hopped with only Amarillo. Reminded me of Oppigårds’ classic pale ale but doesn’t really come close. Won a silver at the recent SBWF. Rating: 3.6 out of 5
Raasted Rug IPA: Raasted head brewer Martin Jensen is a man who (just like the beer bottle labels that depict him) always seems to have a smile on his face and he’ll get me doing it too if he keep producing beers as great as this one. It’s the Nelson Sauvin nose that shines through for me, adding a layer of mango smoothie to a biting hoppy finale. If this beer doesn’t make you smile you should really consider drinking wine. Rating: 4.6 out of 5
Djävlebrygg Son of Nekron: This 6.5% porter made a brief appearance at the Systembolaget last November and it was fun to revisit it again. The distinctly smoky character from the peat smoked malts used is still there, together with some dark fruit (raisins and prunes), some E4 (tarmac) and burnt brown sugar. The sort of beer made for cold winter evenings. Rating: 3.9 out of 5
Amager Lust: This horny, hoppy beer is the first in Amager’s Sinner Series and a beer I was particularly looking forward to trying, having missed out on sinning (at the Danish stand at least) at the SBWF this year. The provocative label shows plenty of cleavage but the beer itself was a bit of a bust for me with an overpoweringly sweet taste and rather forgetful Belgium nose. At best I was mildly aroused. Rating: 2.9 out of 5.
Amager Gluttony: The second ‘sin beer’ of the night and here I guzzled and gorged on an orgy of grapey, citrusy hop flavours squeezed into this remarkable 9.4% ABV DIPA. If drinking this is a sin then I confess I’m heading downstairs with a smile on my face. Sensational stuff and just pips Raasted for the beer of the night. Rating: 4.7 out of 5
Black Rooster Oak ‘n’ Islay Edition: This 6.7% Imperial Stout was specially brewed for last year’s SBWF and has made a welcome return. Aged in Caol Ila Whisky casks it draws the toast and vanilla from the oak into the beer. Not too overpowering but a disturbing saltiness bothered me. Rating: 3.3 out of 5.
Next month’s BeerTalk at Duå is on Friday November 25th under the theme ”Who Needs a Brewery Anyway?”.









